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Africa Budget Travel – Food

Entering into a new country can be such an overwhelming experience. The air smells different, the sun shines different, foreign languages tickle your ears, and new customs tend to throw travelers for a loop. The most important thing when traveling is keeping the stomache healthy and free of any illness or bacteria. As a result, many people shy away from street vendors (for good reasons sometimes). Solely going to restaurants chains makes you miss out on a large piece of the country’s cultural experience. At the very least, you need to go to local, family establishments. Otherwise, I don’t think it’s possible to truly understand a culture.
In Kenya, street food at roadside restaurant are lovingly referred to as a kibanda. They’re nearly everywhere! As of August they’re still around, but I heard rumors when I left the country that because a hotel chain started a cholera outbreak, the government would be closing down the food stands. Anyways, they are literally everywhere, especially near shopping centers and matatu (mini bus) terminals. Whether or not the restaurant is up to your standards is a personal decision. I personally am okay with kibandas if they are not horrifyingly close to toilets or sewers. Walking up and seeing women washing dishes is always a good sign. And if there is a crowd of people there, you are likely in the right spot ( but do keep in mind they are regularly less busy in week ends).
Now, I never eaten meat at kibandas, so I have no advice for the carnivores. A local told me though that at new places he usually goes for fish first, then chicken for a week, then beef. You can dive straight in, but do keep in mind the risks; I think it’s more sane to let your body build immunity first. The beans and vegetables at kibandas are amazing. Ask for managu, terrere (amaranth greens), or sukuma (kale). Beans are often maragwe or lentils. For more starch get ugali or chapati. Ugali is a complimentary maize dish that has the consistency of thick mash potatoes; it really fills the stomache up and is served in heaping portions. Chapati is something like a mix between Naan and pita bread. It’s always made fresh and it is amazingly delicious.
Sukuma is normally between 20-50 bob (shillings) and maragwe is about the same. Uguali is normally about 20 Bob for a serving and chapati is 20 Bob per piece. Friends in Nairobi, Kenya really like the kibanda near YaYa Centre across from the matatu stage on Ring Road. I personally went to the kibanda on Ngong Road near Prestige Plaza many times and loved it; that one’s my favorite. If you end up going to Mombasa and staying in Tulia Backpackers (which has really good veggie samosas) there are a few really good kibandas down the alley way which leads to the Nyali Mall. Prices are about the same as Nairobi, sometimes a bit cheaper.


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